The studio at MM6 tends to prize continuity, but this pre-spring 2024 collection has fresh ideas in the mix. The most striking is how dressmaking techniques borrowed from a century ago have been incorporated into the house’s signature laid-back work-in-progress aesthetic: a ruched neckline makes a humble cotton t-shirt compelling; transforms a beige trench into an enveloping, cape-like statement; or turns an otherwise stark, minimalist black twill top into the kind of workhorse, one-and-done shape that can go pretty much anywhere, anytime, for years.

The intent here is coaxing resonance out of apparent opposites. The dressiest piece in the lineup is a number in crinkled silver Tyvek—the same lightweight, reflective fabric used for dust sheets on construction sites cut into a “prom dress” with asymmetrical ruffles. Though it could stand on its own just fine, here it appears layered with the kind of hoodie in soft, brushed jersey and easy, slouchy jeans that the MM6 base comes back for.

There were a few other neat pivots. In keeping with one of the season’s most salient trends, a typically masculine, tailored vest is softened with quilting into a utilitarian-leaning garment that is probably as comfortable as athleisure but (thankfully) isn’t. A black wool jacket held together by a lacquered white safety pin nods to punk influences; a leather bralette or a layerable, almost-naked mesh top raise the bar on t-shirts or sweats. A hybrid baseball jacket—white workwear quilting over a denim torso—looked cool in an everything-at-once kind of way. An archival polka-dot, worked as a gauzy, blurry print, was recolored in blue, turquoise, and neon green on a breezy dress or a pleated skirt.

Accessories include a fourth drop from the house’s ongoing collab with Salomon: the XT-4 shoes have a single lace system, amped-up soles, and purple and teal accent colors. The Numeric bag that premiered last season returns in mini and large versions, in black or seasonal shades of sage or lime green leather. One of the brand’s best-known signatures, the anatomic shoe, is also back in a green satin ballerina style, or as a low boot with a clear resin heel.

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